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Fri, Jun 26, 2009
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Oh, for the gaiety of Munich

by Joy Fang

SINGAPOREANS just don't have enough fun.

I had this epiphany when I was backpacking through a few cities in Europe for a few weeks, and had spent a deliriously happy time in Munich. It was absolute bliss.

Beer halls and beer gardens reign in this city (which Oktoberfest originated from) of about 1.36 million inhabitants and every single night is a wondrous festival in itself.

Imagine hordes of people chatting and laughing with friends around battle-scarred wooden benches, set up in the nearest open-air area.

Imagine the crowds clutching one-litre mugs of beer and chowing down pork knuckles with pretzels, to the tunes of a rousing live band playing traditional German music.

Imagine feisty waitresses clad in customary Bavarian costumes holding eight mugs of beer at a go or hawking giant pretzels from a basket.

And let's not forget the patrons who start cheering and singing after downing a few of those drinks.

The merry mood is extremely contagious, and my typically melancholic nature was lifted immediately by the spirited scene.

"Everyone is so happy here!" I exclaimed in awe to a friend one night, while soaking it up at the world's most famous beer hall, the Hofbrauhaus.

The friend replied with amixture of irony and resignation: "You definitely won't get this in Singapore."

Although it was like a splash of cold beer down my back, he was right.

The atmosphere in Singapore, compared to that in Munich, seems rather sedate, if not lacklustre.

For most of us, a regular day of slogging at work ends with heading home to do even more work. We are sombre and glum as we walk down the streets, our minds on the day's problems.

Our idea of entertainment is sitting in a darkened cinema hall watching the latest flick. Or shopping at a mall. Or having an expensive meal at a restaurant.

It's fun in its mildest and safest form. Nothing wrong with that; it just isn't the most exhilarating and inspiring experience.

While I was in Munich, life in all its stimulating, rich and pulsating essence was evident practically everywhere I went.

The sense of daily festivity and joy was something I don't get to experience back home. The place had character, and the people knew how to relax and make merry after work - very often, with beer. I was envious.

I'm not saying beer is the be-all-and-end-all answer to having fun (and especially not drinking and driving).

But it is a good start, and it certainly enlivens the place with high spirits. Last Tuesday, a colleague reported on Singapore's advancement in Monocle's list of the world's most liveable cities. It jumped from the 22nd spot last year to 17th this year.

I agree that Singapore is definitely a great place to live in. It's safe, clean, modern and beautiful.

But it's just not fun.

Don't get me wrong, I love Singapore. I missed it while I was away. Prise me away from my Chinese food for a week and you'd see me skulking around the European streets looking for Asian-looking signboards like an addict needing a fix.

But I guess we can't change a country's character overnight. And Singapore will always be my home, a place I come back to.

Still, if I ever wanted to have a few weeks of revelling in absolute gaiety, I'd be gunning for the next European city.

For now, I guess I'll just head to the movies or, better yet, the nearest open-air pub.

joyfang@sph.com.sg


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