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Just a bit homesick for some of Hanoi's chaos
Tan Dawn Wei
Sun, Mar 09, 2008
The Straits Times
TOGGED in a lacy black blouse, grey wool pants with a fuschia scarf hugging her bangs, Ms Hang Nguyen can't appear more stylish for this cosmopolitan city she keeps raving about.

Everything is perfect in Singapore, the restaurateur gushes of her two-year stay so far. It is organised, safe and one can apply for just about anything online.

But every once in a while, the Vietnamese in her hankers for a little chaos: the kind she finds in her hometown of Hanoi.

That means weaving about on her scooter in the chaotic traffic, quaffing coffee on roadside stools, and coughing away the fumes.

'Singapore's too clean. Everywhere, it's so modern and it all looks the same, except when you go to Little India or Chinatown or Arab Street,' mused the 33-year-old entrepreneur.

Except for the occasional bout of nostalgia, she is very much at home here.

'Our cultures are similar. We celebrate Chinese New Year, too,' she said.

The former model, who stands at 1.7m, used to run an advertising agency although she studied tourism at university in Hanoi.

'Being creative, I like the service industry. I think it's my forte,' she said, without a hint of conceit.

It was while looking for opportunities overseas that Singapore came to mind.

She was visiting friends and checking out the furniture import business here in 2004 when the idea of starting a restaurant struck her.

She knew about Singaporeans' love for food and its cosmopolitan buzz. A fine-dining Vietnamese restaurant would work here, she reasoned.

She opened Le Tonkin in Mohamed Sultan Road in 2006. It serves fine Vietnamese and French food. Some of the French recipes are from her mother-in-law.

Singapore has been 'perfect' for another reason: It was here that she met her French husband Christian Duhain, 57, through a mutual friend in 2004.

Mr Duhain, who is head of EADS International, the marketing arm of EADS, which makes the Airbus range of planes - returns to Singapore from Paris about twice a month to rejoin his family in their Grange Road apartment.

They have a 15-month-old son and Ms Nguyen also has a seven-year-old son from a previous marriage.

She goes back to Hanoi once a month to shop for ingredients like rice paper, ginger candy and Vietnamese coffee and tea, none of which can be found here.

Ever energetic, her next idea is to open a restaurant in Hanoi. It is likely to be up against celebrity chef and TV host Bobby Chinn's eponymous fusion eatery in the Vietnamese capital.

'Chinn is very good at marketing. I go to his restaurant for its ambience and a drink, but not for the food.'

It is not that she thinks his culinary skills aren't up to scratch. Her taste buds are just more 'old school'.

Which might explain why she still has not warmed to Singapore's hawker spread, except for chicken rice and laksa. She is also allergic to shrimp.

Regular days see her working from 9am to 4pm, then 8pm to midnight, with just enough time in between to cook for her children and put them to bed.

'My Mum always said, you work but you also have to go home to be a housewife after that. I grew up with that attitude.'

Weekends are work days too but she does occasionally indulge in Sunday brunch at the Four Seasons Hotel or the Grand Hyatt.

dawntan@sph.com.sg
 

 
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